There are more people doing handmade leather goods, and it is inevitable that there is a mixture of fish and dragons: it is a factory goods, but it is called a manual handwork; the product slag is work, but the picture is very beautiful and literary; how to see the essence through the phenomenon, to distinguish between good and bad?
Many friends have such doubts. Before that, we must first define what is handmade leather goods.
As the name implies, of course, it is a handmade leather goods, without the participation of machines. But is it really necessary to count the handmade leather goods?
However, in fact, all the handmade brands that you know or hear on the market use 100% of the machines: cutting machines, edgers, sewing machines, edgers, etc. Including Japan’s Tsuchiya, herz, the United States’ MAKR, TANNER, the world’s best known Hermes handbags are no exception.
Why are these brands that use machines still a big name for handmade brands?
The reason why handmade products are precious is that it is not only a creation, but also a life of a certain person. Efficiency makes the times develop, but makes everything cheap, so that the life that should have been melted into the object is diluted, like a watermelon without a watermelon flavor. If someone gives me a piece of time in life, it should be treasured.
The characteristics of industrial production are: large quantities, constantly pursuing high efficiency and low cost. Therefore, even if luxury goods such as LV, GUCCI, etc., the best leather used is lower-middle than manual brand, not only because of cost, but also because the high-cost top leather can not meet the quantity of mass production. And quality consistency requirements. They are even less likely to customize leather, stitch color matching for one or two guests, and a small amount of production makes it possible to customize parts.
Therefore, the first point of the difference between handmade leather goods brand and commodity leather goods brand is:
A small amount of production vs large-volume production, part of the customizable vs thousand side
This explains why MAKR claims to be a handmade brand, but still uses a lot of machines, and only a few processes are handmade. The question is, when the machine is doing fast and good, why should we choose manual?
The comparison of manual and machine in each process, the subdivision and thinking, is enough for me to write a paper with more than 4 words. Here is my own conclusion:
Through the tempering of craftsmanship, the place where you can spend more time and energy after the manual is better than the machine is the place where the hand is meaningful – the most typical is the hand stitching.
Saddle needle stitching can be more beautiful and firmer than the machine. If one of the machine carts breaks, the thread will be completely spread, and the manual disconnection will also spread without affecting the strength, and it is easy to repair. .
However, this is the most time-consuming, usually a hand sewing a bag, with the machine can sew 30-50. Therefore, among the foreign handmade leather goods brands, only the price of Hermes can ignore the cost and output, and most of them use saddle stitching.
At the same time, this skill requirement is also high. It is said that after Hermès recruitment, no matter how good the foundation is, we must first train the suture for 3 months before we start to contact other crafts.
The second point of advanced handmade leather goods:
Saddle stitch manual stitching vs machine car line
Regardless of design, product propaganda, materials and other processes, we can distinguish three types of leather goods from these two points:
A, handmade: small batch production, hand stitching, such as Hermes some products
B, semi-manual: small batch production, machine stitching, such as Tsuchiya, MAKR, etc.
C, pure machinery: large-scale industrial production, machine stitching, such as LV, GUCCI, etc.
Therefore, from the perspective of product cost, it is naturally A>B>C. The examples here are all well-known brands, which are basically consistent, but there are many fuzzy areas in the middle. C>B, B>A are also possible.
The definition is clear, then the question comes, how to distinguish whether it is manual or machine stitching?
The simplest and 100% effective method is naturally the same as the above picture. Cut the line into a mouth, then pull it and try it. The whole piece is machine-sewn, and the saddle stitch is not scattered on the side. Sewed.
Due to the large differences in the characteristics of vegetable tannins and chrome tanning, the following are all aimed at vegetable tanned leather goods.
From the production point of view, the sewing machine is a needle, using machine power, piercing leather, and walking on two different lines. Set the margins and spacing, push it along the edge, and you can sew it in a circle.
And the manual is to draw the thread that needs to be stitched first, then use the 斩 to penetrate the leather.
The snoring must be perpendicular to the leather surface every time to ensure the smoothness of the stitches.
At the same time, the strength of the penetration should also be mastered, revealing 1-2mm, and more will make the front aperture too large.
Then use two needles to wear on both ends of the same thread and stitch them with a saddle stitch. Different flaws, different lines, and different techniques will bring different effects.
So the main differences are:
1, the machine has a needle double line, hand sewing double needle one line
Some of the bags, especially the belts, have different colors or different thicknesses on the front and back sides, so the machine seams must not run, and the front and back lines of the hand stitches must be the same. But if the machine uses two identical lines, then look at the next point.
2, the machine uses a needle to punch holes, hand sewing with a punch hole
This is the key bag of Tsuchiya, and their machine work is excellent.
After zooming in, the difference between the hole of the sewing machine and the hole punched is quite obvious.
Some people will judge whether they are dumpling-type stitches (wave type), which is not necessarily true.
For example, this machine sewing bag is a very prominent dumpling-type stitch. Most high-end sewing machines can do this. Even diamond-shaped needles have similar effects.
However, the vegetable tanned skin of the machine seam should be nice to the front seam. The price is the back of the needle, which is often unbearable.
The above two are still well-made, relatively not known for their work, herz, even if you do not need to zoom in, you can clearly see the difference between the front stitch and the back stitch of the needle.
The hand-sewn, although the front and the back are still a little different, but can be achieved through the skill of the temper. It can be distinguished by the wave type being left and right.
To summarize and judge whether to hand-made leather goods, you can pass the following two points:
1, whether it is small batch production, if yes, most can accept partial customization
2, whether to manually suture the line, by zooming in on the details of the line hole, see the effect of the back stitch
Here are just a few points that can be used to easily and significantly judge the work of handmade leather goods.
In fact, sutures can have many styles, and everyone’s preferences are different. Japanese-style rhinoceros, European-style cymbals; twine, polyester thread; various spacings, I will use according to the style of the work, but there is a standard that is put Everything is:
The stitches are flat and consistent:
Consistently, the spacing between the lines is consistent, the line-to-edge spacing is consistent, and the diagonal lines are consistent.
Doing this can be considered a qualified hand stitch, but there are many tricks.
2, edge banding
In addition to hand stitching, this is the second time-killing process, and sometimes even more than stitching.
Edge sealing generally requires the following process:
1, sanding and leveling, so that the edges are flat
2, chamfering treatment, making the edge rounded
3, stitch edge, the upper bed / CMC polished to make the edge smooth
4, sandpaper edging, from 600 mesh -1000 mesh -1500 mesh grinding, more and more delicate
In the process of sealing the edge, after mastering the basic skills, the more time spent, the finer it is. In addition to time, the most important effect on the effect is the characteristics of the leather.
For example, this is completely without edge sealing. In addition to visually, the biggest problem is that the edge is more handy.
In contrast, there are short clips that have been edged.
Of course, not being edged can be seen as a style that will look more primitive and rough.
As with stitching, the standard for sealing in most cases is:
The edges of the leather are sharpened and smoothed, and the edges of the leather are not noticeably rough, and they are not easy to touch.
3, the details of processing
The third slot of the above answer is the stacking processing of the card position, which is part of the detail processing. Of course, it is not impossible to overlap the stack, but it is necessary to perform thinning at the stack to make the edge thickness uniform.
If you cut the stack like this, you need precise cutting and splicing, and calculate the pupil position or even spacing.
Similar to such details, there may be more than a dozen or twenty for a wallet, and the style, requirements, and handling of each craftsman will be different. Many times it is not a technical issue, but a tolerance for details. Therefore, the more excellent the craftsman, the more serious the obsessive-compulsive disorder must be.
To sum up: look at the work is good or bad, the key is also to zoom in to see the details
- At first glance, the stitches are smooth and consistent.
- Second, look at the edge of the seal is smooth and not rough.
- Third, look at the details.
“Maybe when you see these works, you don’t think of cold machines and boring roars, but the aroma of leather under the long nights; when you touch them, you can feel their own littleness. Soul, this is enough.
Handmade works are never perfect, work is just a small part of what you can see, and more is the design, ideas, and thinking behind the craft. I think, what really matters is that the manual workers are constantly pursuing better works, trying to materialize their hands with their hands and to surpass the original heart of the machine.